Orford Restaurant Guide

The Pinney family’s fishy institution “hasn’t changed for 40 years, apart from the odd tweak to the menu – and why not, when it’s as perfect as this?” A “simple setting” doesn’t detract from its charms – including the fact that “it was doing local before it became a trendy buzzword, with fish (both fresh and smoked) and oysters from down the road”; “after you’ve eaten, you can wander through this impossibly picturesque village to their shop to take more home”.

This red-brick hotel with rooms was formerly owned by TV ‘Hotel Inspector’ Ruth Watson, but is nowadays under local group The Hotel Folk; “the menu is seasonal and consistent” and features “lots of lovely fish” landed in Orford, as well as locally reared meats, with “professional” service thrown into the mix.

2022 Review: “You could almost be in Kerala” at this “excellent and imaginative Indian” on the seafront, noted for its “delicious spicing”… almost, were it not for the mismatched modern hotel setting; attractive booth-style seating and an impressive list of specialist beers are added motives for a visit.

There’s “always a long queue” at this well-known and much-commented-on fixture – “but it’s worth the wait” for “great fish ’n’ chips to eat on the beach” while trying to “avoid the seagulls” poised to pounce on your meal. Owner Peter Cooney was 11 when his parents bought the business in 1967, and he’s still frying. Top Tip – “grab a pint of excellent Adnams from next door while you wait”.

“My favourite restaurant in Aldeburgh” – this long-running operation from twins Alex (FOH) and Oliver (chef) Burnside, also behind local haunts The Plough & Sail and The Golden Key, “specialises in fish and seafood, but the meat dishes are also impressive”.

“Always reliable”; “always a cheery welcome”; “always fun”; “always something new to try”… “and moreover, they charge reasonable prices!” These are some of the prime virtues of Sam & Maxine Hayes’s local stalwart which remains the most commented-on venue in this seaside town even after almost three decades in service, thanks to its “dependable” delivery of “simple, honest fare”. “The fisherman was carrying his catch through the restaurant and my wife spotted skate… 15 minutes later it was served to her!”

2023 Review: This black-painted shack opposite Aldeburgh’s Moot Hall sells “seriously brilliant smoked fish right on the beach”. The seafood is either hot- or cold-smoked on site, using a light smoke to enhance flavour rather than the more commercial heavy smoke used as a preservative. Top Tip – “noon tarts to die for”.

With its “great fish dishes – we had a whole brill for two served at the table with chips and hollandaise sauce, which was… ’bril’ (geddit?)” – this yearling from George Pell, formerly of L’Escargot in Soho, “has ambitions to be the new east coast superstar. Another year will tell whether they have made it”. Locally born head chef Tom Payne, 25, certainly made a good start, mightily impressing Observer critic Jay Rayner a week after his promotion to run the kitchen, with a ‘menu that is certain of its mission’. It’s certainly “a welcome addition locally – a treat”, and the “nice new bedrooms” and “well-made cocktails are a plus”. (It’s one of the few good legacies from Covid, as the team from L’Escargot shifted here during the pandemic).