Nantwich, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

This “lovely, cosy pub” in “a nice location in rural Cheshire” wins admirers for its “exceptionally friendly and helpful staff”, who are “a credit to Brunning & Price”, the Chester-based national chain. “We tried it on spec, and have been back several times since”.

2023 Review: New York, London, Doha… Whitchurch – that’s been the progression for Stuart Collins and wife Frances, who started this slightly unlikely venue five years ago, bringing a level of culinary ambition that was previously unknown to this corner of the Shropshire/Cheshire borders. Helped by a star turn from Stuart on Great British Menu a couple of years ago, it continues to attract some “outstanding all round” reviews for its 9-course tasting menu (at £85 per person).

2023 Review: “Theatrical presentation” is a longstanding feature of the Pear family’s stalwart fixture of four decades’ standing, whose ‘Dinner at 8’ package was an early adopter of the tasting menu format, with a 7-course menu delivered in a single sitting (you arrive at 7.30 pm). Fans say “Covid hasn't affected the consistent high quality of this unique dining venue. And to the famous ‘Dinner at 8’, can be added the growing popularity of their afternoon tea”: “a choice of gentleman’s or lady’s gives a useful mix of sweet and savoury, including the legendary homemade desserts. Ample portions (take-home boxes cheerfully provided), well served and a good range of teas''.

2021 Review: Just a short drive outside Chester, a smartly appointed “bar and bistro in an old family grocers shop retaining much of the original features and fittings of the Georgian building” (The Gunnery). “A straightforward menu is well realised” and weekend brunch is a feature.

This unusually grand and “busy gastropub” near the gates of the Duke of Westminster’s Cheshire estate is “probably the best Brunning & Price”. “We’ve eaten here many times over the years, and while the food has had its ups and downs, recently it’s been of top quality” – “it’s best to avoid weekends though, as it can get very busy: the price of success!” Top Tip – lovely garden in summer.

“Bistro meets pub to create a really enjoyable experience” at Gary Usher’s year-old gastropub, which opened in early 2023. It’s off to a smooth start (“we ate on the fourth day of opening, and expected some minor teething troubles, but there were none!”) and seems to succeed in his original aim, which was ‘to serve great drinks, delicious unpretentious food by a team that love what they do’ (even despite a minor furore in the national press over the pricing of a £20 burger).

Mel & Martin Board, who reinvented the Haughmond Inn at Upton Magna, have worked wonders since taking on this village pub-with-rooms, opposite a Norman church, two years back. The “beautifully refurbished” (to the tune of £2 million) venue’s food “has also gone up a considerable notch”, offering “inventive” and “excellent value” locally sourced British grub with greens from the 200-year-old walled garden of Hodnet Hall. While it “still caters for a local clientele”, perhaps not for long, after critic William Sitwell’s glowing review (headline “civilisation has hope”).