Marylebone, Indian Restaurant Guide

“Wonderfully scented dishes” are “delicately and expertly prepared” at JKS Restaurants’ exceptional Marylebone flagship, just off the high street, which fans claim “surpasses the Indian original” in Mumbai (which inspired it). But while its culinary performance impressively lives up to its reputation, perceptions of its “oddly shaped and slightly claustrophobic” premises are deteriorating. Top Menu Tip – “definitely get the Duck Keema Naan if it’s on the menu”.

This “beautiful little restaurant with a neighbourhood feel” in Marylebone, from chef and food writer Ravinder Bhogal, offers a “wide-ranging and ever-changing selection of consistently good dishes” inspired by her ‘no borders kitchen’ philosophy. “It’s a melange of Middle Eastern, African and Indian influences” that results in “very creative flavours – not just in the cooking but also outstanding cocktails such as a Negroni with pomegranate and rose”.

“Authentic high-quality Indian food”, including some “inventive and interesting dishes”, are on the menu at the first London venture from New Delhi’s Azure Hospitality, on the former site of veteran curry house Gaylord (RIP) near Selfridges. Named after a smart Mumbai district and with the ‘Bandra Bhai’ cocktail bar downstairs, it’s definitely “worth remembering”. A chef’s counter – launched in summer 2023 – is a new addition.

“There’s a wide range of options to explore” on the extensive menu of this “Indian street-food” café, in a side-alley near Selfridges: “great simple food at reasonable prices” and cooked to a “consistently high level”. Upstairs makes a “perfect location for lunch”. There’s a more formal basement dining room, better suited to evening meals.

“Creative and fascinating riffs on classic Indian cooking” by chef Chet Sharma inspire another year of rapturous reviews (“quite simply the best Indian food I have ever eaten”) for this JKS Restaurants property in Mayfair; on the (somewhat “narrow”) site that was Truc Vert (RIP). “The friendly, charming team makes the experience a true delight, and there’s a cracking playlist as well!” Caveats? “It’s another case of a restaurant going set menu only in the evenings”, which limits a less expensive à la carte option to lunch.

“The rather cramped interior isn’t great but Keralan food is exceptional” at this “really good local independent Indian”, near the Telecom Tower, which has delivered “very decent value for money” for four decades. (“More than a quarter of a century after my first visit, the dosas are still worth the trip. I think it’s been redecorated as well!”)

“Craft cocktails and delicious upscale street food in a swank setting” is the proposition at this interesting Marble Arch two-year-old named after a historically important district of Calcutta (from chef-patron Anjan Chatterjee and airline entrepreneur Aditya Ghosh). “Finding good Bengali food from Calcutta has been a struggle, but not any more!” – this is “a taste of real Indian regional food crafted using exceptional ingredients which elevate the flavours of each dish”.

2022 Review: After winning a mentorship in a pop-up competition at Westfield White City Shopping Centre in 2018, Mehak Kansal brought this bricks-and-mortar operation to Mayfair in October 2020. ‘Bindas’ – Punjabi for without limitations and inhibitions – here translates into eclectic decor and a varied selection of street food. No feedback as yet, but they must be doing something right, as a second site is on the cards.