Lincolnshire, French Restaurant Guide

“Very good food – probably the best in Lincoln” is “matched by a lovely location in a historic building on Steep Hill”, dating from 1170. Chef-patron Gavin Aitkenhead, who worked under legendary Germain Schwab at Winteringham Fields before setting up here on his own account in 2006, is behind a “thoughtful, interesting and imaginative tasting menu”, which is “spiced up with fun conversation from the staff”, headed by FOH Samantha Tomkins.

“Outstanding!” – Harry & Caroline Hallam accommodate a maximum of 10 guests at a time in the “so cosy” front room of their Georgian house: a “long-running and great restaurant”. It has been in operation for over 30 years (long before the term ‘pop-up’ was invented) and most folks have nowadays forgotten that for many years they held a Michelin star (until about 2010). Caroline is front of house, Harry in the kitchen and the menu depends on what Harry has decided to buy that day (you must book ahead). The experience is somewhat dependent on the quantity and personality of fellow diners but – even if the level and tenor of feedback has perhaps become slightly more muted in recent years – no reports this year suggested that the experience remains anything but very good or excellent.