Irby Restaurant Guide

“A top Sunday roast” is but one attraction of Gary Usher’s Wirral fixture – the original follow-up to Chester’s Sticky Walnut, which opened in 2015 in this Grade-II sandstone building; and which follows the format of its predecessor. Most reports rate its appealing modern bistro cuisine between “very good” and “outstanding”, but ratings slipped a tad this year on the odd report of an “off night”.

2022 Review: A fixture of dining on the Wirral through four decades – “it’s been there for years” – the Galantini family’s Italian-inspired venue is as reliable as ever and “Enrico’s interesting food is always worth a try”. Long the head chef, he has now taken over management from his parents, Lino & Barbara, but regulars will be pleased to know that “the particularly good specialities such as Avocado Barbara” (avocado peeled, stuffed with prawns, covered with cream cheese and deep-fried in breadcrumbs) are still on the menu.

A sunny days outside terrace and an attractive location by the waterside of the famous Albert Dock adds to the appeal of Lunya’s little sister. It serves a range of tapas and sharing platters – this year it won particular praise for its “brilliant and friendly service with great attention given”.

2021 Review: The “lovely Thai food” at these reliable cafés is “impressively authentic given that they are a chain” – “excellent value” and “fast”, if occasionally let down by “iffy service”. Founded in 2008 by Saiphin and Alex Moore, who inherited the name of their first East End site, the group has 18 branches in London and expanded to Liverpool, Manchester, Reading (delivery only) and Leeds following the sale of a majority stake to US investors. The couple also have two spin-offs, Lao Café in Covent Garden and the new Chinese noodle bar Hoh Sek in St Katharine Docks.

2022 Review: In the Albert Dock, this collaboration between Belzan and Breddos Tacos occupies the atmospheric vaulted brick premises that characterise these Grade I listed dockland buildings, and comes with a large outside terrace. It’s hot right now as a place to get boozed up in party mood, but the Latino dishes are worth exploring (and The Guardian's Grace Dent raved in a June 2021 review).

“Just watch the sunset over Liverpool from this 34th-floor restaurant”, say fans of this spectacular venue in the West Tower, the city’s tallest. Run by Cathy Frost, whose developer husband Hugh built the tower, the operation’s modern British cuisine has consistently impressed reporters, and new head chef Nathan Booth has settled in well following the departure of Elliot Hill to the Chester Grosvenor.

2021 Review: “Italian small plates (this time)” “from the Salt House tapas stable” – win solid ratings for this “friendly, buzzy restaurant” from the Red & Blue team. It’s “great for a larger party”, with “seats at the bar good for dates”; “it’s crowded so you do get to hear your neighbours’ conversations – although in Liverpool that can be theatre”.

2022 Review: “Always busy and buzzing with conversation”, this “reliable upmarket resto in the business district of the city centre” – a link in the glitzy national Italian chain – wins solid marks for its “atmosphere, good-quality produce and cooking”.

2021 Review: Manchester’s tapas smash hit branched out in August 2019, with this large 250-seat opening, in the Exchange Flags development, overlooking Liverpool’s fine town hall (which formerly traded as Steven Gerrard’s ‘The Vincent’). A big and well-stocked bar is also key to the offering.

2021 Review: “Consistently good food at a competitive price” plus a “useful central location and a great choice of gins” means this modern brasserie from Merseyside’s Red & Blue Restaurants group is “worth a visit”.

2021 Review: BBC2’s ‘My Million Pound Menu’ winners Dave Bone (chef) Jamie Duffield (front of house), and Anthony Power opened this new venture in Duke Street Market (a revamped docklands warehouse) in spring 2019. The food offering is based on dishes found along the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage routes in Spain, France and Portugal, and – though we received no survey feedback – it’s receiving a good rep generally (including from Michelin who awarded it a 2020 Bib Gourmand).

Glasgow chef Nico Simeone’s distinctive concept has grown into a national chain with 11 restaurants (including Fitzrovia and Canary Wharf) in just six years, offering a quick-changing succession of themed six-course menus for under £50 a head. It’s widely seen as “fantastic value” and has a sizeable fanbase amongst reporters (“every six weeks, the menu renews and for me, it is something to look forward to…”; “we simply love it and we’ve yet to miss a menu!” – “the Tokyo menu was so good we went back a second time”). Only a tiny few say, “you can feel you’re on a conveyor belt with lots of upsells”; or that the whole thing is “a dystopia of where restaurants will evolve”.

2021 Review: Sibling to Manchester’s popular Albert’s Schloss, this ‘bohemian bier halle and cook haus’ replaces The Hub Alehouse. It’s unlikely to be a hugely foodie destination, but – if we’re reading the runes correctly – it should be a good laugh with hearty scoff (schnitzel, burgers, raclette) to soak up some fine brews.