Esher, International Restaurant Guide

“Great views of the river” near Teddington Lock undoubtedly elevate a visit to this “welcoming” brasserie and jazz bar; the food also seems to be on an even keel of late, with reports of “well-cooked and enjoyable” dishes (including a “fantastic afternoon tea”) that can seem “surprisingly good given the slightly rickety/plasticky interior”. Best in summer, when you can make the most of the riverside terrace.

“Almost part of Wimbledon’s heritage nowadays!”: after a quarter of a century’s service, this local indie is a local contemporary classic, known for its “very good” Mediterranean-style food and “personable staff”. Fans say it’s “upped its game over the last year” too, although it “can struggle to cope when crowded”.

This attractive eighteenth-century inn is a short stroll from Sheen Gate and a good option following a walk in Richmond Park (especially in summer on the terrace). On the downside, “the cooking can be a bit hit and miss” – it’s “under new management” since Fuller’s fell out with the previous landlord a couple of years back, “so perhaps hasn’t found its stride yet”.

“A favourite local, always to be relied on” – this cosy, all-day fixture in Strand on the Green, from Lorraine Angliss, is still popular after 24 years. A branch in Barnes hit the buffers a while ago, but three other sister venues are still thriving – Little Bird in Battersea and Rock & Rose in Richmond and most recently Chiswick High Road.

“Vegan food that’s as good as can be” – from a selection of broadly Asian choices – inspires devotees of this ‘vegan soul food’ venture in Earlsfield (now with a spin-off in Honor Oak Park) from school friends Arvin Suntaramoorphy and Shyam Kotecha. “Being able to ask for additional dishes until satisfied means you never leave disappointed”. Guests are invited to BYO without charge, and to reduce the bill if they believe it is too high – while the truly hard-up can eat for free in return for a couple of hours’ work.

“Great to have this restaurant on our doorstep” – Kimberley Hernandez’s superior fixture is easily missed in the strip of pizza-stops and cafés on Chiswick’s main drag; but it’s well worth discovering for its “interesting, very well-prepared and presented” (and relatively healthy) cuisine. And in April 2023, they appointed Nathan Cornwell (recently of The Barn at Moor Hall) as head chef who has, if anything, further stepped up its performance. Not sure about the home-made elderflower wine though…

“Always busy local favourite” facing onto Wandsworth Common. It serves “competent modern British food” but what particularly helps keep its regulars coming back is a “keenly priced wine list” from owner John Brinkley, who has a string of wine-focused venues in southwest London.

“Now under new management”, this “small and friendly” pub – in the picturesque Hammersmith backstreets known as ‘Brackenbury Village’ – has gone from good to better. It has always been a “solid, welcoming local, with good food and well-kept beer” and its new incarnation is just that bit ‘next-level’: with its “well judged and executed seasonal menus and quality wines by the glass” it’s “buzzing”.

2022 Review: The World’s End – a huge Grade II listed late-Victorian gin palace that’s long been a landmark of the more distant stretches of Chelsea’s King’s Road – offers an ‘immersive’ experience nowadays, comprising basement ‘Bletchley’ Bar (1940s vibe), top-floor Chelsea Black Martini bar and a ground-floor restaurant. Initially branding as ‘Journey’ was replaced with ‘Jolie’ mid-lockdowns in autumn 2020 – a ‘salon’ serving French-inspired sharing plates and with bottomless brunch a big feature.

2022 Review: “Excellent value, especially set meals” (at what feels like 1980s prices) mean this age old Italian greasy spoon in Chelsea has a wider constituency than you might imagine.

On one level it’s like any other “friendly local”, but few pubs have such a picturesque location as this popular tavern, on the kind of Regency square in Kensington that makes tourists swoon (and with its own cute outside terrace). “Great pub-like food” (without any gastro pretensions) is served in its “lively” dining room. Piers Morgan throws an annual Christmas party here, hosting celeb pals from TV and politics, with Gary Lineker in regular attendance… well, nowhere’s perfect…

2021 Review: “Bright and airy”, traditional-ish gastroboozer (plus garden), off Clapham High Street, “reliably serving good food” (if not of a particularly ‘gourmet’ variety).

“If you like street food and quick relaxed eating”, seek out this three-year-old covered street-food area adjoining the famous market that’s winning a consistent thumbs up; you can choose from about 15 different stands and there’s a fair amount of communal seating. It used to be a car park!

2021 Review: Forty wines by the glass, and 150 by the bottle are the main ‘gourmet’ attraction at this modern wine bar, near Notting Hill Gate (which, over the years, has added siblings in Fulham and Brackenbury Village). To accompany the liquid refreshment, there’s substantial fare like steaks and seared fish, or you can stick to the “great bar platters”.

2022 Review: A long-standing watering-hole for the Chelsea set (immortalized in the 1980s style bible, The Sloane Rangers Handbook), off eternally chic Brompton Cross: the Cod is “not too pretentious or posey”, and serves “good honest pub grub” – albeit of a quality not found in your average backstreet boozer.

2021 Review: A big outside terrace is a key feature of Charles Saatchi’s attractive gallery café, which overlooks the green next to Duke of York’s Square on the King’s Road. Foodwise, it is most recommended for its afternoon tea possibilities, but it’s tolerably rated for a light bite at other times too.

Set in a striking purpose-built circular pavilion in Duke of York Square, this family-friendly venture is part of the Caravan group (it’s named after the Romany travelling wagon). The menu of global favourites is “very good value for Chelsea” (but, in gastronomic terms, perhaps a bit “dull”).

2023 Review: “In the lower ground floor of Harrods opposite the wine department”, this luxe brasserie from Jason Atherton’s Social Group opened immediately after the pandemic. Unsurprisingly, prices are not bargain basement, but even those complaining about them rate the food as good, and the store at last has the comfortable, modern restaurant space it formerly lacked. Top Tip – very affordable set menu, but you must have booked ahead.