Darlington, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

Since its debut in 2009, James Close has put this Grade-II-listed former pub firmly on the UK’s foodie map, despite its out-of-the-way location in the County Durham countryside, not far from Darlington. Once a real ale boozer, in its converted state it has maintained two Michelin stars since 2016 and is one of the culinary flag-bearers for the Northeast with its extensive tasting menu – £195 per person for over 10 courses (or you can eat at the chef’s table for £300 per person). Compared with some other places of gastronomic pilgrimage, it didn’t attract a huge volume of feedback in our annual diners’ poll this year. But there were none of last year’s critiques, and all acclaimed “an excellent dining experience” that’s “outstanding all-round”, so we’ve maintained its ratings.

2021 Review: Set in 200 acres of North Yorkshire, this informal bar/brasserie is an “interesting conversion of stables attached to the main house” (there is also a posher dining option here, ‘The Forge’). An all-day operation, it offers food that’s “reliable and well presented” from a series of menus, including breakfast, afternoon tea and dinner (with the focus on Mediterranean char grills).

2023 Review: “It’s still as good as ever at Eugene and Barbara McCoy’s country pub” say fans of this destination, ten minutes from Middlesbrough. “It’s one of the few places that still hold a traditional Beaujolais Day in November and has a waiting list of people wanting to come!”