Just off Oxford Street, this North Soho chippy makes a plainly elegant destination for classic fish ‘n’ chips; the post-3pm menu offers particularly good value.

Full marks for descriptive brevity. And the name does not lie, either. This north Soho newcomer is perhaps the best attempt so far to update the traditional chippy concept without seeking to re-invent it. The room itself, with its jolly but not garish yellow Formica tables, is pleasingly plain and airy, and service is efficient.

We’d put the pollock ‘n’ chips we sampled somewhere around a respectable mid-point on the chippy scale. The chips, thickish-cut, were a good example in classic style; the fish was satisfying, if perhaps a touch greasier than ideal. Wolfed down with some good home-made tartare sauce, however, the plate certainly offered nothing to complain about.

And here’s a real West End tip. Dine here (3pm-9pm), and there’s one fish ‘n’ chip dish daily for just a fiver. And that’s the sort of value it really is quite difficult to beat.

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