Ristorante Semplice W1

It’s not just in the world of hedge funds that Mayfair is hot right now. Perhaps not entirely coincidentally, it’s also where everyone in the restaurant world wants to be. Just consider the names poised to open there. Claude Bosi, who’s moving one of England’s most celebrated restaurants – Hibiscus – from Ludlow. Second, Anthony Demetre and Will Smith (the team behind Soho’s much-fêted Arbutus), set to launch a second operation soon. Finally, Alain Ducasse – the world’s most-starred chef – who is to open at the Dorchester in the autumn.

Ahead of this rush is this new Italian – product of a partnership between the ex-chef at nearby leading light, Teca, and the ex-manager of the famed Locanda Locatelli. This is promising form, and the result is a highly polished operation, which was well into an impressive stride on its second day of business.

What’s not to praise? The setting is stylish without veering towards either chilly minimalism or ostentation. Service is engaging and efficient. And the extensive wine list has lots of interest for most budgets. What’s more, the food – ambitious, interesting and very reasonably priced – really sets the place apart. A trembling octopus starter was awarded ‘best ever’ status by a guest, and a deep-yellow saffron risotto was also praised. Gnocchi were very good, and chicken – fashionably cooked sous-vide – was notable for the intensity of its flavour. Fortunately, the individual dishes are not too large, leaving you space for some of the excellent ice creams and sorbets.

Any criticisms at all? Well the premises are rather small. Even with all the competition – both actual and forthcoming – we can’t help thinking that the team here could sustain something rather larger.