Where would you take England’s greatest living ex-Prime Minister for lunch the day after her 80th birthday party? Admittedly, this is not a question one faces all that often, but the answer presented itself when – half way through our meal – Lady Thatcher made her entrance into this grand and very English dining room near Victoria Station. This is a fine choice indeed, for those suspicious of continental ways. The Goring is the last grand family-owned hotel in central London, but unlike the Basil Street (which recently closed) it doesn’t mind the occasional investment to keep its appeal up-to-date. Hence the elegant recent refurbishment, by David Linley, of this bright corner dining room. Nothing too startling, you understand: with the Connaught and the Savoy Grill abandoning their time-honoured régimes, the Goring is now one of a tiny handful of the capital’s surviving traditionally grand hotel dining rooms. The food, as ever, is as native as you’ll find. The word ‘carpaccio’ has admittedly crept on to on the menu, but mercifully it turns out that it’s: “of Balmoral Venison with Beetroot”. Phew. After that, there’s little that would give John Bull any cause for concern: a good choice of meat, game and fish, all simply served, and followed by puddings of the crumble ’n’ custard variety, and a selection of English cheeses (from Paxton & Whitfield). There are no fireworks (heaven forbid!), but everything is of a good, consistent quality. The service here has long been among the best in town, and so it remains. It has the unforced – almost clubland – charm which goes with the sense of belonging which George Goring (and now son Jeremy) have always seemed so good at creating. A true sense of unforced hospitality is a particular rarity in grand establishments – no doubt why the place was full to bursting.
Follow hardensbites Follow hardensparty
Become a Harden's fan
