Curve, London Marriott West India Quay E14

There are many restaurants and bars overlooking Canary Wharf from West India Quay. Their large open-air terraces were full of happy punters, the sunny lunchtime I visited. Except, sods law dictated, for the dining room of this new Marriott hotel – one of the proud runners-up in Time Out’s recent Alfresco Tables Dining Award. It had decided to celebrate its recent accolade as only a major corporate ‘hospitality’ operation knows how: by keeping its recenty feted alfresco area defiantly closed. Other exterior signs were equally unpromising. In particular, an ‘A-board’ outside, which glowed with the lurid hues of water-chalks. Where are the Marriott brand-police when you need them?

And then things began to look up. The service in the bland – but light and spacious – modern dining room was friendly and efficient. The choice of breads– offered with a couple of dips, as well as butter – was quite good. A rather odd starter – a trio of chowder, prawn cocktail and Caesar salad – impressed with its ingredients, and worked surprisingly well. In fact, sourcing is taken surprisingly seriously here: quite a lot of organic produce, and all beef (a speciality, it seems) from Cornwall. My steak ’n’ mash main was certainly enjoyable enough, if without hitting any heights. A trio-style apple pudding – suggested by the waitress, who seemed to know what she was talking about – was a surprising success. Coffee was fine.

But what is this place for? Its style is just a bit too brassy to appeal to senior execs, and – at around £50 a head –on the pricey side for the juniors. Is it a facility for the residents of the hotel above? Not so, it would seem: an American guest’s request for an off-menu omelette was declined. The staff, however, did humour all those bizarre requests for decafs, and things “on the side”.