In a small and perhaps slightly subdued space, just off Carnaby Street, a corner barbecue specialist offering a small range of dishes of very high quality.
Almost everything, it seems. First surprise is that – far from the self-conscious streetiness and din of, say, MEATLiquor– this bright and tightly-packed corner spot has a rather old-fashioned style that’s something remarkably close to teashop-prim, especially by Soho standards.
Second surprise is that the service – rather than attempting to be too-cool-for-school – is just very efficient and helpful.
Third surprise? Well, how many 'proper' restaurants actually offer food such that, the next day, you feel you’d like to go back and eat it all again? Such was the status achieved by our pulled pork (which is one of the house speciality dishes). A changing range of interesting 'sides', such as marrow mash, is also included. The food all comes on white and blue enamel workmen’s tin dishes but, hey, nowhere’s perfect.
Our one-course lunch, including a glass of the house red (in a Duralex tumbler) and service cost £18 for one – perhaps not the very cheapest available in this part of town, but certainly one of the best.
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