In an emerging part of Battersea – near the Dogs’ Home – a surprisingly good Italian, where pizza is just one part of a satisfying overall package.
hat’s in a name? Does Three Bridges say ‘Italian’ to you? Is location everything? These are the sorts of questions inspired by an early-evening visit to this new restaurant on a site which has already had one – rather brief – attempt in recent times at being a quality mid-market Italian.
The key points that struck us on our visit was that this is a restaurant which deserves to be busy, but which – at least on our visit – was not busy at all. We’re not claiming an in-depth culinary investigation here, but everything at a light early-evening supper for one was of consistently high quality. Bread – focaccia as well as a standard white – was both copious and of good consistency. A starter of octopus with citric juices was a touch unusual, and satisfying too (if a touch on the chewy side), and a main course of venison and cabbage ticked rather similar boxes. We didn’t try it, but pizza, at reasonable prices, is also available. Service is solicitous. Fit-out is handsome. In fact, this is, in many ways a pretty much perfect local restaurant.
The rub, of course, is that locals of the type who are going to patronise a ‘proper’ restaurant – even one offering a pizza alternative – are thin on the ground on a site where the most prominent home locally is occupied by Battersea’s dogs. And there’s a large school, and some small coffee shops, some rather miscellaneous boutiques and some council estates… But not, in the immediate vicinity, anything that could really be characterised as a bourgeoisie. Which is a shame, as this is a place that – despite it curiously flat and inappropriate name – really deserves to prosper.