A large tapas restaurant, near Great Portland Street tube, where the chef has an impressive cv – he may perhaps have been absent on the day we visited.

Something approaching a ‘rave’ review elsewhere drew us to this large but otherwise unremarked-on tapas bar-cum-restaurant. It opened six months ago, and sounded as if it might be a handy place to know about in the thin but expectant area around the Portland Hospital.

It’s a lofty but unremarkable-looking place, presumably having inherited part of its design from the last of the number of ‘concepts’ which have previously occupied the site, so we were looking forward to the exciting cuisine which would jazz the whole experience up.

In vain. Our lunch, not particularly inexpensive, was totally devoid of anything resembling a gastronomic highlight. Even a simple crowd-pleaser like croquetas were just a mush, and whitebait verged on offputting.

The highlight of our meal, our notes reveal, was the terminal espresso. But then it may just have been relief. Let us hope that we were just ‘unlucky’.

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