El Faro E14

Like many 'tapas bars', this Isle of Dogs newcomer can seem worryingly ambiguous to the non-Hispanic mind. Is it a bar or a restaurant? Well, however you describe it, this place emerges as one of the few places in the vicinity of Canary Wharf to which one might positively recommend a trip.

It does not actually occupy a building of any great age or distinction - still less a former lighthouse - but its setting has a deal more character than is usual in these parts. And the plainly handsome interior styling has mercifully avoided either of the two local design clichés - chilly minimalism, or Miami Vice kitsch. For warmer days, there is an atmospheric terrace, right on the water's edge.

The tapas list does not try to impress by its length, but standards seemed consistent across the board. Good crusty bread rolls set the tone - simple, you might say, but still remarkably difficult to find. Green and garlicky olives were good too. We also enjoyed some plain but generous mushroom croquettes, and a good hot dish of green beans and Serrano ham. The latter was in fact the starter to a good-value menu of the day, which also comprised a generous helping of tender slices of loin of pork, in a peppercorn sauce (and served with crisp and salty sauté potatoes). This otherwise satisfying meal concluded with a dull 'flan' (crème caramel), somewhat redeemed by a pretty decent espresso.

There are lots of staff, and service was initially notably charming and efficient. Then it just sort of stopped, which makes any overall conclusion rather difficult. Perhaps, by the time you may visit, they will have overcome the spirit of manana. Well, at least until another day.