The Pumphouse N8

“Have you brought us to a dump?”, asked one of my fellow diners asked as we approached this Hornsey newcomer. Its car park does admittedly have some not especially attractive railway-track views. But hey, at least you can park. And, as you approach the impressive Edwardian brick exterior, things start to look up. In fact, glimpses of the glossy interior and the site of the uniformed greeter give a positively glitzy impression, if in a somewhat suburban way.

Inside, the feeling is more metropolitan-chic. You'd hope that a large post-industrial space would be a dramatic backdrop to a bar/restaurant and it is. Mosaica restaurants (who seem to be making a North London speciality of this sort of conversion) have done an artful job of softening the brutal elements of the building's design to create an airy, stylish drinking den and dining space. There’s even – echoes of Wapping Food – an art space, in conjunction with the Royal Academy.

The greeting was warm and genuine (though on a weekend lunchtime the press of custom seemed to have left the front-line service a little frazzled). There’s a daily changing menu, which incorporates pizze and risotti, as well some more solid options. All three types of dish turned out to be much superior to what might be expected for such a large, casual-dining experience. The only quibble was the greedy pricing of some of the incidentals (can garlic bread really be worth £6!).

Still, a quibble it is, as overall this is a large, good-looking versatile space with food that’s above par. The large bar is an attraction in itself, further boosting its credentials as an excellent new north London hang out. And we need more of those.