Our guest at today’s meal – a critic for another publication – had eaten not once but twice at the new Malaysian restaurant in the West End’s outrageously fashionable Sanderson Hotel. He levelled with us: we were neither beautiful nor rich enough to eat there. Also, the food was no better than when the place was called Spoon. Three reasons, then, not to visit Suka.
Its prior lack of profile may result from a – not totally unreasonable – assumption that it’s all about meat-on-sticks. But this is far from true. The satay are good, but form a tiny introduction to a menu that’s long, varied and bordering on incomprehensible. Don‘t worry, though, everything is good. The bread was interesting. There are deep-fries (squid was a standout), there are curries (we enjoyed the eggs very much), and there’s all manner of unfamiliar concoctions (the best of which in our meal included aubergine and anchovies, though whether they came separately or as part of the same dish, our recollection blurs).
As exciting (and spicy) culinary adventures go, you could do very much worse. It’s high time this veteran oriental was placed firmly on London’s culinary map.
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