Haozhan W1

In the heart of Chinatown, a much-above average Chinese newcomer (with some Sichuan specialities), of particular note for its exceptional-value set lunch.

It’s not often that a small new Chinese restaurant makes waves immediately on opening, but this one’s been making an early claim on critical attention, and quite rightly too, if our experience was anything to go by. Visit at lunchtime, and you’re already likely to be sent upstairs, as all the ground-floor tables have all been booked.

It’s sometimes suggested that this is really a Sichuan restaurant, but many of the dishes are of fairly standard, if quite diverse, oriental inspiration. To us, it’s the sheer quality of the cooking – not the rarity of the menu – which makes this place of interest. Even an old fave like prawn-toast, for example. A truly delicious dish, it comes elegantly presented on a sort of boat-shaped plate which would not look out of place in a fancy Japanese joint.

There’s also a Japanese element to the presentation of some other dishes – lunchtime peppered beef for example, was presented Bento-style with rice (no surprise in a Chinese restaurant) and a fresh green salad (which is). But the real unifying feature is everything here just tastes great.

If you’re having the lunchtime set menu (2 courses for £8) – which we’d heartily recommend – it’s worth spicing it up with a Szechuan soup on the side. In a good way, it offers a taste and texture you’re likely to remember for a long time.