Sukho Thai SW6

It wouldn't be fair to say that Fulham has no good restaurants. But – certainly as you leave the immediate environs of Fulham Broadway– the distant reaches of the Fulham Road have historically been a land of big pubs and chains. Here, indeed, near the junction with the Munster Road, stands the world's very first Pitcher & Piano…

In recent years, a couple of oriental openings have spiced up the streetscape. One, inevitably, is a chain, but at least a new branch of the excellent Royal China group. The other, this Thai of a couple of years’ standing. Dropping-in impromptu late one weekday evening, this small joint was jumping! But the rather run-off-their-feet staff still managed an effortlessly smiley and happy welcome. Once again the question arises: how it is that the Thai people just 'get' hospitality, in a way that's totally alien to most Brits?

Seated at our small table, we recognised Roy Ackerman – one of the restaurant industry's eminences grises – seated at a nearby table with a group of friends. This place's reputation has clearly spread. And rightly so. Nothing we sampled fell sort of being very good, and some dishes were outstanding. Plah Tuna sticks in the mind – thin slices of fish in an effervescent lemongrass and mint vinaigrette. Sam Klore were also very good – beautifully crafted small dumplings with three different, densely-flavoured fillings. When the bill came, a filling meal for two with drinks saw change from £60.

This amiable café is not the ne plus ultra of Thai cuisine, nor do its elegant and colourful premises offers an expereince "experience" beyond good buzz and good cheer. But, if you’re looking for a good-value place to spend your own money, you’ll find few better.