Pinchito Tapas EC1

It’s important for restaurants to be true to their roots, so first impressions of this new tapas bar near the Old Street roundabout are very comforting. Slightly ramshackle? Low-level bare-bulb lighting? Attractive, slightly offbeat staff? Yes, yes, yes. Spiritually speaking, this place is an absolute knock-off of its Brighton parent.

And the mother ship is not just any old establishment. When it opened last year, the fame of Pintxo People quickly spread even to the capital. The finest scribes were sent post haste to the seaside, and the reviews they sent back were invariably glowing.

Our experience of Pintxo’s first offshoot was in keeping. In truth, though, it was the laid-back vibe the place manages to create – and just a few paces from the hubbub of the City – which impressed us most. And the range of wines too, all available in 125ml shots, served in authentic low-rise tumblers.

It’s difficult to appraise any tapas bar without reference to Barrafina – the ‘haute’ tapas outfit that’s been one of London’s most universally acclaimed hits of recent years. The aim at Pintxo, however, is less ambitious. All your favourite dishes are done very well, though. And, with ‘pinchos’ – the basque word for tapas – starting at £1 a pop, eating here can certainly be a lot cheaper

If we had the choice for an evening out, it’s not the lower prices which might bring us back to Pintxo, rather than its smarter West End competitor. We’ve admittedly never been to Cal Pep (Barrafina’s Barcelona inspiration), but we have done the pincho-trail around San Sebastian. And Pintxo recreates that feeling perfectly.