Pétrus’s ex-chef has helped tranform this once-sleepy townhouse in a Kensington back street into one of the most notable London openings (well, re-openings) of recent times; efficient service and the comfortable ambience only enhance the experience.
With Tristan Welch as chef – until recently he was head chef at Pétrus, voted best restaurant overall in our most recent survey – it was never likely that this was going to be 'just another opening’, and we thought the food was consistently very good to exceptional, and often beautifully presented. (A pre-dessert of little custards, for example, came wittily but not over-cutely presented in a boiled egg stand, and delicious they were too.)
Even the bargain lunchtime menu offers ‘different‘ – but not forced or silly – dishes that really work. If one could make any sort of negative observation – it could not be really called a criticism – it is that some of the dishes, such as a hearty risotto starter, are surprisingly substantial.
Staff are attentive too, and – like the smartly contemporary interior – manage to avoid giving the impression of trying too hard. All in all, therefore, this discreetly located spot – at the end of a cute row of multi-million pound houses – is now, for our money, one of the better all-round, all-purpose restaurants in town.
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