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Review of the Reviews - London

Green’s Restaurant and Oyster Bar

AA Gill, The Sunday Times (Rating: 0/5 stars)

On a Monday evening in the City – hardly, one might observe, the fairest of test meals – the critic discovers “the most depressing restaurant in London”. Above the “hangar-like bar, bereft of human beings”, is the mezzanine restaurant, which feels to him “like an Aberdeen Angus Steakhouse in Leipzig.” Oysters – the speciality – disappoint, and the rest of the food is “tortured”, with one dish actually being sent back.

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Matthew Norman, The Guardian

Theo Kyriakou has, we are told, “gone from Greece [opening the original Real Greek] to Grease”; his latest venture is a “greasy spoon” by London Bridge, “tarted up to resemble a 50s American diner.” The critic finds a “bustling, unpretentious” place where the “Anglo-Italian-pan-Med menu” mostly delivers.

Whitechapel Gallery Dining Room

Giles Coren, The Times (Rating: 5/10)

The rating for the dining room of this recently-refurbished gallery comes with the critic’s “apologies to the chef”. It’s the gallery – and the fact that he is not allowed in it – that brings the score down. The restaurant itself is “small and cosy for such a modern space”, “[t]he staff are very kind and the menu is gloriously brief.” The food may sound “pompous” (such as “Textures of English sweetcorn”) but it demonstrates the “great talent” of head chef, Maria Elia.

Tierra Brindisa

Zoe Williams, The Telegraph (Rating: 6.5/10)

The critic regards the “fabulous tapas giant”, Brindisa, as an “institution” that “introduced us to the style potential of the spicy chorizo”. However, she finds the menu at the Soho branch too “crowd-pleasing”, suggesting that the British “palate can take more of a challenge”.

Quirinale

Toby Young, The Independent on Sunday (Rating: 15/20)

A “pretty good experience” rewards the critic for his visit to this “smart without being grand” Westminster Italian. Despite being in a basement, he finds it “a light, airy space” with a “summery feel”. He samples the five-course tasting menu, which – after the “spectacular start” from an amuse-bouche – ends up “slightly disappointing”.

The Mulberry Tree, Kent

Jasper Gerard, The Sunday Telegraph

The critic visits a “remote [and empty] restaurant” in an “incongruously modern building” in the Kent countryside. The “bargain lunch” is better than pub grub and uses “great rural ingredients”. Whilst results are not entirely consistent, he can see the “potential” here.

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