A summary of London restaurant reviews over the last two weeks.
Supperclub
The critic vists a cabaret outfit in North Kensington, which is “rammed” on her midweek visit. All aspect of the operation, however, turn out to be “wildly unpalatable”.
The Milroy
Evening Standard, David Sexton (Rating: 4/5 stars)
The critic lunches at a Mayfair gaming club that’s open to hoi polloi for lunch. He finds “fine food, distinguished service, lavish surroundings — it’s not just highly recommendable but actually very good value”.
Trullo
Evening Standard, David Sexton (Rating: 4/5 stars)
In Highbury, this spirit-of-the-River-Café newcomer “is such a draw”, says the critic, “that it’s obviously going to triumph over this slightly challenging micro-climate”. The premises have been “tastefully re-decorated”, and the host-patron is “remarkably confident”, and “the price-quality ratio is quite amazing”. “The only downside with Trullo is that it will surely be packed out. Best keep this one secret?”
Pétrus
Metro, Marina O'Loughlin (Rating: 2/5 stars)
The food at Gordon Ramsay’s latest restaurant is “entirely fine”, says the critc. That’s as excited as she can get though. “Ramsay’s restaurants look like they’ve been created by a man who understands the criteria for Michelin upper-level billing but is trying to tick them off without real feel or flair. It’s like he’s working to a 1990s template that says Fayn Dayning: How To Appeal To Mr Michelin In Ten Easy Lessons.”
Paramount
Evening Standard, David Sexton (Rating: Food 3/5, Experience 5/5)
The food at this dining room atop Centre Point is good enough, but it turns out to be irrelevant. It’s the setting that sweeps the critic away. “We were sitting in the Red Room, in hues of scarlet and bronze, decorated with pots of white mophead hydrangeas, looking west as the sun set and the light turned golden. I’ve had few more memorable meals.’
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