With chef Cameron Emirali hailing from Wapping Food (one of Marina's “favourite restaurants on the planet”), it's no surprise she's a fan of his new Soho restaurant; if you don't mind the noise and slightly “hard-edged ambience” (blame its “instant popularity”), it's worth waiting for a table to enjoy ingredient-focused dishes that, “through benign and intelligent lack of intervention” are allowed to “tell their own stories” alongside a “really alluring” wine list.
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