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Review of the Reviews - London

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Andy Lynes, Metro (Rating: 4/5 stars)

This “converted greasy spoon” on the South Bank has been given a “gleaming [...] retro makeover” and is “currently serving some of the most exciting grub to be had in the city”, says the critic. Real Greek founder Theodore Kyriakou has devised a menu of “pan-European food”, that produces some “utterly delicious” dishes (even if they are “not the most smartly presented”).

Le Provence

Charmaine Mok, Time Out (Rating: 2/5 stars)

The critic finds John McClements latest opening – on the site of his Barnes Ma Cuisine – “a bit of a let down”. The best thing about it is the “charming and hospitable” front of house; “the decor isn’t much cop” and the food “lack[s ...] refinement”.

Union Square

Guy Dimond, Time Out (Rating: 1/5 stars)

Be warned: “this cheeky new namesake” at the 02 has no connection with the “legendary” New York bistro of a rather similar name. “[It] does have a vaguely American theme” and service is “sweet and willing”, but the menu – “a mix of English pub grub and US shopping mall favourites” – offers dishes at not insignificant prices that can “resemble a ready meal”.

Tenore

Feargus O’Sullivan, The London Paper (Rating: 3/5)

This Islington pizzeria “may have an uninspiring location on a busy road and slightly weird decor”, but its “huge” pizzas (from a wood-fired oven) and other Sardinian dishes are “great”. With it’s “interesting” take on the pizzeria formula, and it’s “immaculate service”, this is “the sort of simple local people fall in love with.”

The Fellow

David Sexton, Evening Standard (Rating: 3/5 stars)

The critic considers it a “radical achievement” that a restaurant in the heart of Kings Cross has managed to create such a “civilised atmosphere”. Furthermore, it has a “thoroughly enticing” menu, and offers an “especially rewarding” wine list too.

Hakkasan, Miami

Victoria Pesce Elliott, Miami Herald (Rating: 3 stars)

The dining room of this export from London town is a “gorgeous” place with “moody lighting”. The critic has a “divine” meal that “feels healthful and indulgent at the same time”, complemented by an “exceptional” wine list. This being Miami Beach, however – Mid Beach, if you want to be technical – service is “cute and a bit snooty without much in the way of knowledge or savvy.”

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