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Review of the Reviews - London

Caponata

Marina O'Loughlin, Metro (Rating: 3/5 stars)

This “brave” new addition to Camden’s improving dining scene – on the former site of Café Delancey – consists of an “informal bar-café”, and “more elaborate Ristorante” upstairs, plus a “live arts venue, The Forge”, too. The critic visits the ristorante, where “the flavour is firmly Sicilian”. The food is mostly “excellent” (only “one car-crash dish”), with puddings that are “[t]ruly first class” – courtesy of ex-Zafferano patisserie chef, Antonio di Salvo. Prices are “no cause for alarm’ and the design is “striking”. She finds “[t]he whole thing [...] youthful and funky and fun”.

Guy Dimond, Time Out (Rating: 3/5 stars)

The critic likes the “sleekly modern Scandinavian look” of this Italian newcomer in Camden. Being part of a music venue, The Forge, “[i]t would have been easy to turn out the usual pizza and pasta”, but they have opted for a more ambitious, “mostly Sicilian” menu. He is not entirely convinced by the execution of some of the dishes, however, and suggests that “the kitchen is still finding its feet”.

The Restaurant at St Paul’s

Feargus O’Sullivan, The London Paper (Rating: 3/5)

“Tucked away in the crypt” of St Pauls, the critic discovers a “simple, understated bistro”, serving up “pleasantly plain” and “affordable” English food.

Twotwentytwo at The Landmark

Rachel Cooke, Evening Standard (Rating: 1/5 stars)

Visiting the new dining room Maryblebone’s Landmark Hotel, the critic proclaims a “tragically wasted opportunity”. The décor is “Identikit” and the music “loud Kenny G”. The “bog-standard hotel fare” is invariably disappointing too.

Gravetye Manor, East Grinstead

David Sexton, Evening Standard (Rating: 3/5 stars)

The critic visits the dining room at this “Elizabethan manor” in West Sussex (which used to have quite a name for its cooking). He finds “hotel food”, which – despite being produced by Gavroche-trained Mark Raffan – is “a little hit-and-miss”. Service is “formal” yet “friendly” and an “imposing wine list” has the odd “surprising bargain”. But the total experience of a visit can be “quite magical.”

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