Andy Hayler is a man with a mission. He is fixated by those stars handed out by Michelin, especially at the top (3-star) level. At one point, if we recall correctly, he had visited every 3-star restaurant in the world.

So when Andy proclaims an ambitious French newcomer the “best new restaurant opening in London for many years”, and gives it 8/10 – his equivalent to two stars – we have to assume he knows what he’s talking about.

So, if you’ve got £150 (a head!) burning a hole in your pocket, here’s the link to his review – the first published, we believe – of L’Ambassade de L’Ile, on the former premises of Lundum’s in South Kensington. (There is, it seems, a 25% food discount being offered until the official opening date of 1 July.)

The chef is Jean-Christophe Ansanay-Alex, whose other property, L’Auberge de L’Ile in Lyons, has two stars. If its London offshoot really is a two-star property, it will be of those vanishingly rare examples of a top chef expanding without spreading himself too thin.

We haven’t eaten at the Ambassade yet, but we did, by chance, poke our noses in last night. Very strange décor, but that’s the French for you.

L’Ambassade de I’Ile
117-119 Old Brompton Road
London SW7 3RN

Tel 020 7373 7774

PS (30 June) We tried today to book a table for two for lunch, to be told that we could only do so with a credit card. Whereas we have every sympathy for restaurants faced with no-shows – and we understand why restaurants feel it necessary to protect themselves in the case of larger bookings – we felt this was a ‘step too far’. The place may have to wait a while for a review, from us anyway.