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Restaurant News & Views

24th May 2010

Review of the Reviews - National

Viajante

The Independent (Rating: Food 3/5 stars, Service 2/5 stars, Ambience 2/5 stars)

“This is a restaurant that clearly aims to be world-class, Mendes’ passion isn't in doubt, and his ambition to establish Viajante as a beacon in an area which badly needs visitor attractions is admirable. But his mission is compromised by disjointed service and over-intellectualised food.” A visit to the Bethnal Green newcomer leaves the critic feeling that “experimentation had won out over common sense” - while some dishes are “superb”, others “seemed almost perverse, showcasing ingredients – chicken skin, raw squid, celery heart – which even a mother would find it hard to love.”

Kathmandu Inn

Matthew Norman, The Guardian

A rave review of this Shepherd's Bush Nepalese, which even without the Nepalese specialities “would simply be an outstanding local tandoori.” The interior looks like “the antithesis of the stereotypical curry house. White, bright and blessedly uncluttered”, cuisine is “consistently delicious” and side dishes are “faultless.”

The Canton Arms

Zoe Williams, The Telegraph (Rating: 9/10)

High praise for the Stockwell gastropub, where all dishes sampled please. “I don't even need to tell you to come here… it will very soon be one of those places that everyone has been to.”

Milestone, Sheffield

Jay Rayner, The Observer

The critic visits a “rare and lovely find” that's “hidden away in a defiantly ungussied-up corner of Sheffield.” Both the decor and the cuisine “felt comfortingly Saxon – Anglo or otherwise”, and the critic enjoys “robust” and “flavourwise” main courses and “infantilising” desserts. “Even now Sheffield, which has wells of money and taste, is not overendowed with good places in which to eat. That makes the Milestone even more welcome. I'm glad locals directed me to it with enthusiasm.”

The French Table, Surbiton

AA Gill, The Sunday Times (Rating: Food 3/5 stars, Atmosphere 3/5 stars)

The critic praises the “long and inviting” wine list and “agreeable” prices at this well-known suburban restaurant, and mostly enjoys dishes “that might come from the recipe section of The Lady; safe and commodious, with an elegantly raised pinkie” (bar pea soup which tasted “like the warm cud of a llama with a lung infection.”)

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