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Review of the Reviews - London

Zucca

Fay Maschler, Evening Standard (Rating: 4/5 stars)

Emerging as the least-anticipated hit of recent times, this Bermondsey Italian is, says the doyenne of critics, “a River Café with no river but meals at about a third of the price”, Highlights from the “brief” menu include an “impressive array” of homemade breads, the roast pigeon and a “treasure trove” of a wine list.

Guy Dimond, Time Out (Rating: 4/5 stars)

More praise for the Bermondsey Italian where “the food is more Italian in spirit than some of the food you find in Italy.” On a “brief, prosaic menu”, all dishes sampled impressed, and the wine list is “unusually intelligent”.

Manson

Andy Lynes, Metro (Rating: 2/5 stars)

Disappointment for the critic on every level at this Fulham restaurant – the latest perch of Ramsay protégée Gemma Tuley, who has generally received good reviews for her work both here and elswhere.

Service is “unengaging”, décor “pleasant but unremarkable”, and the cuisine is “too bland to be memorable”. Special mention is reserved for a “nicely presented rump of Elwy Valley lamb...so severely undercooked that any collie dog worth its salt could have herded it back into the kitchen.”

Santa Maria

Nicky Evans, Time Out (Rating: 5/5 stars)

“Santa Maria is the thinking food-lovers' mini-break. Closer to London than the airport, cheaper than check-in charges, and with pizzas as authentic as any in Italy.” A rave review of an eight-table Ealing pizzeria that's “bursting with good atmosphere, a result of its relaxed jazz music, the boisterous chat and proximity of its customers, and the good feeling emanating from its owners”.

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