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Review of the Reviews - National

No change in the middling reports on Gauthier. Not a bad thing to say about The Pump House in Bristol, Café Luc or Magdalen Arms in Oxford.

Gauthier

The Observer, Allan Jenkins

Allan Jenkins finds “Gauthier's Ducasse-trained pedigree and hunger for more (Michelin) stars shine through in the quality of the cooking,“ but the jury is out on whether he is “good enough to take pride of place among the likes of Bruno Loubet and Pierre “. He sums up the meal as “three sublime plates of food out of eight“, but the dishes were “surprisingly small“, the service patchy and the surroundings a more “subdued and safer establishment“ than the previous inhabitants, the Lindsay House Restaurant.

The Sunday Times, AA Gill Rating:2/5

“A French restaurant that has lost its way“ the starters “exceedingly bland“, the mains and dessert somewhat better, however AA Gill “expected rather more from Gauthier“.

The Pump House, Bristol

The Guardian, Matthew Fort

An upbeat report of Toby Gritten's restaurant – “fine, judicious cooking going on here, and thoughtful dishes well-made from very carefully sourced ingredients,“ with “a clever and thoughtfully priced (wine) list“, an atmosphere of “open, cheerful ease“ – and all at a very reasonable price.

Café Luc

The Independent, John Walsh Rating:Food 4/5, Ambience 3/5, Service 4/5

This “dead-chic brasserie“, “by the people who made the Café Anglais look cool“ has a “terrific“ three-course lunch menu, with main courses so gorgeous that John Walsh “felt like buying an easel, brushes and oils and painting them.“ Some details need ironing out (such as an un-chilled glass of wine) and the price is a little high, but chef David Collard has “a rare eye for beautiful display as well as flavour“.

The Elephant, Devon

The Telegraph, Zoe Williams Rating:7/10

The restaurant has “an upstairs 'posh' experience, plus a less intimidating room downstairs with a very similar menu.“ The downstairs menu is of a justifiable price and the restaurant is expert in handling the “beautiful produce of the area “ as well as having food with “character“.

Magdalen Arms, Oxford

The Sunday Times, Giles Coren Rating:8/10

“Currently serving the best food for 50 miles around“. They have made the “space work nicely“ and the daily-changing menu is “just dreamy“.

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