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Restaurant News & Views

18th February 2010

Review of the Reviews - London

Babbo

Marina O'Loughlin, Metro (Rating: 3/5 stars)

The critic visits a new-ish Italian in Mayfair – the “spiritual home” of “better fiscally endowed” non-natives. Indeed, in the “very pretty”, “Manhattan-y” dining room, she is the only “local”. She finds “opulent” food (either “foofy” in presentation or “vast and hilariously hand-knitted”), and discovers that, even without wine, you can “effortlessly spend a ton”.

Oishiii

Kei Kikuchi, Time Out (Rating: 2/5 stars)

The critic is not convinced by this Stoke Newington Japanese. It may have a “great location” and a “good atmosphere” within its “dramatic” interior, but the “[o]rthodox” menu produces food that is “merely ok” and service is “attentive, but flawed”.

El Rincon Quiteno

Katrina Kollegaeva, Time Out (Rating: 3/5 stars)

This authentic South American restaurant feels “more like humid Quito than the damp Holloway Road” to the critic. She is mostly complimentary of the “home-style dishes” full of “big flavours and contrasting textures”, and finds that “cheap prices and welcoming but unhurried service” are drawing in the crowds.

Assaha Village

Andrew Neather, Evening Standard (Rating: 4/5 stars)

As a fan of “rustic” Lebanese restaurants, the critic is delighted is discover this new venture near Paddington. Not only is it rustic, it “aims to recreate a rural environment” and the “huge” basement is laid out as a village (sounds “corny” but we are assured the effect is “charming”). The food? “the most authentic Lebanese I’ve had in London”.

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