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Review of the Reviews - National

Inamo

Jay Rayner, The Observer

A review – why now, one wonders? – of a Soho pan-Asian, where interactive menus are “beamed down on to your table from a projector above.” The smaller dishes, such as Japanese eel and sea bass sashimi are the most succesful, however “[i]t all fell apart in the larger dishes” - special mention is reserved for “floppy and sweaty” crispy duck with pancakes. Prices are a little steep, but all in all “Inamo is fun, and if you choose carefully you can eat well.”

Wild Garlic, Beaminster

Jasper Gerard, The Telegraph (Rating: 9/10)

High praise for this “sensational” Dorset restaurant, where all dishes are “perfectly seasoned” and “stunningly presented”. “Faultless” spelt and nettle risotto and fillet of beef -“another simple perfectly cooked winner” - attract particular praise, and “[b]est of all there is nothing poncey about this place.” “If the burghers of every country town could enjoy a restaurant like the beaming folk of Beaminster's, we Britons would be happier bunnies.”

Baumann's Brasserie, Coggeshall

Tracey MacLeod, The Independent (Rating: Food 3/5 stars, Ambience 3/5 stars, Service 4/5 stars)

“If this place had any more personality, it would be John McCririck.” A review of an Essex brasserie, where, like the decor, the menu is “characterful” and includes “pan-global novelties such as foie gras crème brulee, and scallop sushi with lemongrass and tahini.” The critic remains unconvinced by some of the more unusual dishes, such as charred antelope steak in goat's cheese sauce, however concludes that “this is a well-run operation that knows how to keep its regulars happy.”

The Taverners, Godshill

Lisa Markwell, The Independent on Sunday (Rating: 14/20)

A visit to a pub in a “twee” town on the Isle of Wight, where the interior may have some “design howlers”, but cuisine is largely enjoyable, if rather generous in portion size. “It may not be troubling the Michelin inspectors anytime soon, but The Taverners makes me wish I lived in a thatched cottage on the Isle of Wight. If only the portions were closer to model-village size.”

Crab House Cafe, Wyke Regis

Matthew Norman, The Guardian

“When it comes to the cooking...the Crab House wins by following that most opaque of formulae: it takes local ingredients of top quality, cooks them simply and accurately in its open kitchen, and serves them (via friendly teenagers in aprons) without poncery.” High praise for this Dorset seafood restaurant - the location “lacks picturesqueness”, but fish is “perfectly cooked”, and “this is as artless and engaging a restaurant as you will find.”

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