“Yipin China is not for everybody” with its “ludicrously photographed” menu and dishes dressed “with buckets of chillies” but, if you like “being beaten around the head with funky, unapologetic, chilli-tastic offal-led food” spanning Sichuanese, Cantonese and Huanese cuisines, not visiting here would truly “be missing out” for those “who are serious about their food”.
Zoe Williams, The Sunday Telegraph (Rating: 4/5 stars)
Despite its questionable decor and proximity to the coach station, this Oxford Sichauanese restaurant with its colour photograph-based menu and “delicious food” (even “the weird dish that you only ordered out of a sense of duty is delicious”), leaves Zoe feeling “it's great in here” and, like London's “groundbreaking” Barshu, My Sichuan has truly mastered this “regional flavour”.
AA Gill, The Sunday Times (Rating: 2/5 stars)
A downbeat, and fairly colourless assessment (in every way) of this new Chiswick branch of the upmarket sushi mini-chain originating in Mayfair, near Vogue House.
Giles Coren, The Times (Rating: Food7/10, Comms 2/10, Sustainability 7/10, Score 5/10)
After twice encountering a totally empty restaurant, Giles finally visits this “old-fashioned” looking room: “all white, split-level, very big, low-ceilinged, tiny bit ground-floor oppressive”. Starters are “all good” but “then they frazzed it”, with a mis-described lamb dish. “A bummer” as “the place is really very lovely” and “the cooking is mostly great”.
The only caveat is “the old-schoolery of the setting” at this new Mayfair restaurant – a “a temple of gastronomy” with a “muted hotel atmosphere, and unembarrassed emphasis on ‘fine dining’”. Service is “mostly excellent” and the food is “definitely festoonable” with accolades and moreover at current prices “something of a bargain”. Dishes are “amazing”... “show-stopping [with] great, deep, umami flavours”... exhibit “subtley as well as power”, etc, etc.
Tracey MacLeod, The Independent (Rating: Food 4/5, Ambience 4/5, Service 4/5)
Tracey is up-front about the fact that she is dining at this recently revamped Cambridge institution with the full knowledge of its new owner, foodie journo Tim Hayward, who shouts to the chef “Boss, we’re on!” as he welcomes his fellow scribe and “bustled around looking like a very happy man” for the rest of the evening. Whether Tracey’s experience can truly be said to be representative of an average meal here is therefore something of a moot point, but she is delighted by the “simple, unadored good taste” of the shortish menu and concludes that “to find a restaurant as good as Fitzbillies anywhere would be heartening. To find one in Cambridge, notoriously the UK’s worst ‘clone town’, is inspirational.”