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Review of the Reviews - London

The Luxe

Marina O'Loughlin, Metro (Rating: 2/5 stars)

“Could do much, much better.” Those five words really tell you everything you need to know about the critic’s view on this recently opened upstairs section of John Torode’s Spitalfields newcomer, which she says “lacks everything you might reasonable expact from hospitality: generosity; warmth; a damn good feed”.

Needoo

Roopa Gulati, Time Out (Rating: 3/5 stars)

“There’s little about the frontage of this small café to distinguish it from the many other ‘Indians’ in Whitechapel”, says the critic. “Run by a former manager of Tayyabs”, a few paces away, it offers “the [similar] staples – smoky grills and Punjabi curries. But it also delivers earthy vegetarian dishes made with care and consideration – and that’s its point of difference.” The grill dish the critic tried, however, was a “let-down” (as it had been for Jay Rayner, in his Observer review).

Pierre Koffman Restaurant on the Roof

Charles Campion, Evening Standard (Rating: 4/5 stars)

“Gloriously unpretentious, they are the kind of dishes you would expect from a gourmet peasant. The meal from Monsieur Koffmann was the best food I have had all year”, says the critic. What a shame the pop-up restaurant on top of Selfridges – briefly run by the man who used to run the fabled Tante Claire – is not to be a permanent installation!

Dock Kitchen

Fay Maschler, Evening Standard (Rating: 4/5 stars)

The critic visits a “permanent pop-up” restaurant, handily situated “where Ladbroke Grove meets Harrow Road”, which is “open for breakfast, lunch, weekend brunch and on Thursday evenings for themed dinners”. She enjoys a “masterful” Sri Lankan dinner there on her visit, but the menu has apparently now moved on, even if the restaurant is not going to. All very confusing.

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