Who says the English aristocracy doesn’t care about food? Earl Cadogan – freeholder of much of the land round Sloane Square – has so taken against the food and prices at Oriel SW1 that he proposes not to renew their lease, when it expires in a couple of years’ time.

His lordship’s views, reported in the Daily Telegraph, chime with the almost invariable tone of Harden’s commentary over the years.
Oriel proprietors Tragus Holdings – who also run Café Rouge, also a Harden’s reporters’ bête noire – are not going quietly, and told the newspaper that the matter may end up being decided by the courts.