A very odd round-up this week, in which the key London media contrive to tell us little new about the (English) capital’s restaurants…
Ms Maschler is star-struck in Paris
Ms Mascher, however, has had a great time at a new hotel restaurant just off the Place Vendôme (Pur’ Grill), whose chef has done time at the Crillon, Taillevent and the Grand Véfour, as well as at the Martinez in Cannes. She awards it 4/5 stars, as she does two bistros she also raves about: the celebrated Benoit (now an Alain Ducasse property) and another that’s very handy for the Gare du Nord, Hier et Aujord’hui.
Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester
Rating: 3/5 stars
Ms O’Loughlin does not rush to judge nowadays. Having left Ducasse’s new restaurant a few weeks to settle in she come to the same good-but-pricey conclusion as those who vulgarly rushed in.
Rating: 6/6 stars
We covered the sole review published in this week’s (paper) Time Out last week. We do, however, now discover that he awarded it six stars – oh dear, all of a sudden this seems to be becoming a habit.
For once, Bloomberg’s man goes budget. He concludes that, “for such authentic food, with decent ingredients carefully prepared”, this East End Vietnamese is “a winner”.
And, finally, a review from across the Pond…
Allen & Delancey, New York
Rating: 2/4 stars
Neil Ferguson left the Gordon Ramsay empire when his cooking failed to win many plaudits for the latter’s high-profile opening ‘at the London”, in Midtown. Well Ferguson is now back in the Big Apple, cooking at this “scruffily elegant” Downtown newcomer, and the critic seems very happy with the result.