Underwhelming reports of Wabi and La Bécasse, upbeat reviews of The Dock Kitchen and Table, and the same old story for Brasserie Joel.
Brasserie Joel Park Plaza Hotel
Similar to most reviews of this restaurant so far, the critic questions whether this hotel and restaurant that “looks like a club class airline lounge“ is “really the right place for a chef of this calibre?“. “The food...for the most part, is good, in a very precise, French way.“ All in all - “an enjoyable meal, but ... enjoyed in the wrong place“.
Wabi, Horsham
The Guardian, Simon Hattenstone
The critic is “not so sure (the food is) even Japanese.“ He goes on “the food isn't bad, and we ate it all“ but for the price he payed, he says, “you want good, with trimmings.“ The surroundings and service are not rated highly either, in-fact “there is no atmosphere at Wabi; no warmth, no passion, no generosity, no care.“
The Dock Kitchen, Portobello Dock
The Independent, Lisa Markwell
The critic visited the restaurant twice. The first time the food was slow to arrive and the four courses were served “luke warm“ and tasted average to good - “a bit dispiriting at £35 a head (without drinks).“ She returns as “there was real skill in the cooking“, and “the dining space had just been reconfigured to add many more tables“. This time the dishes receive compliments from “simple ingredients at their peak, allowed to shine“ and simply “frikking good“. In conclusion, “once front of house is up to speed, Dock Kitchen will be unmissable.“
Table, Jubilee Square
The Independent, Tracey MacLeod
The critic enjoyed her meal, with a “menu (that) ticks all the foodie boxes“ - including a Middle Eastern inspired dish which “tasted actively fantastic“ - at a reasonable price. However she predicts that “unless it attracts the Carluccio's crowd, it isn't going to take off. And it would be a real shame.“
La Bécasse, Ludlow
The Telegraph, Elfreda Pownall
Disillusioned with conventions that accompany the fine-dining experience, the critic hopes the pay-off will be an extraordinary meal. “However, things went downhill once we chose from the set menu“. Starters were missable - her pasta “looked like hospital lino“ - but the real fly-in-the-ointment was the chicken, she writes; “when it comes to undercooked chicken, I'm with Edwina Currie and her salmonella campaign“.
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