Bistro Bruno Loubet
Fay Maschler, Evening Standard (Rating: 4/5 stars)
The much anticipated return of Bruno Loubet to the UK, from Down Under, pleases the critic on both her visits to his eponymous bistro - “one of the significant restaurant launches of 2010 – and the year is young.” Despite a few presentational qualms, and certain ideas having “lost whatever lustre [they] once had”, the critic enjoys some “effortful” and “masterful” dishes, with onion soup and “unassailable” desserts attracting particular praise: “[I]t is great that Bruno is back — and at prices that are eminently fair”.
Art du Fromage
The critic is eager to visit this ambitious Chelsea newcomer that focuses “almost monomaniacally on le fromage: cheese, specifically French, in its unadulterated state or teased into all kinds of whiffy, calorific and heart-stopping incarnations”, and the menu - “the kind of thing that would make a turophile weep with pleasure” - does not disappoint. “Is it lunacy? Or are they properly on to something? Whatever, I love them for it.”
Time Out (Rating: 4/5 stars)
A review of a South African-run British restaurant, in a somewhat unexpected East End location. While the interior “doesn't immediately excite”, the critic is impressed by the “lack of pretension and focus on good food” and concludes that “Palmers is the sort of neighbourhood place that would be welcomed anywhere in London”.
Not sure if there should be quite so many critics doing the Standard’s reviews, but this new lady makes a very decent début. She self-summarises nicely: “Boyd’s greatest asset is its architectural heritage, and to survive it has to become a destination venue for the pre-theatre set (two courses are a bargain £15.50). If not, it will only confirm Northumberland Avenue’s beleaguered Monopoly board reputation — 24 moves away from the glories of Mayfair and just five from Pentonville Road”. An inspired conclusion!