“It’s a long time since I’ve had a meal in London [without] a single fumbled beat, says the critic, but her dinner at Alexis Gauthier’s ambitious Soho newcomer is one of them. “The cooking is ace”. “[W]hile the food may be close to perfect”, however, “the rest falls a bit short”. Service is “a bit all over the joint”, and the setting is “a bit of a buzz-stealer. In its beige, unadorned, small rooms, you find yourself conducting conversations in a whisper”.
“The views are exhilarating”. saus the critic, and contribute to a “total experience” of a visit to Centre Point’a top floor dining room which is both “memorable” and “worth the price”. The food may not be the main point but – despite being “elaborately assembled” – it “all tasted good”.
“The month-old Nottingdale Café has River Café aspirations”, TO’s head man tells us, and he quite warms to this back-end-of-Notting Hill “canteen”. There are “triumphs” at the test meal, but too many “off-register” dishes too.
Mount Street Deli
“Not cheap, but… extremely civilised”, this new Caprice-group deli-diner in Mayfair gets a surprisingly warm welcome from the Brothers and Sisters round at TO. “The food might not be as polished as the clientele, but we'd gladly go back just to people-watch - on our visit we witnessed a succession of well-coiffed ladies and neatly tailored gentlemen relaxing around the table in post-prandial comfort.”