Hix Belgravia W1
Fay Maschler, Evening Standard (Rating: 3/5 stars)
Ms Maschler is seemingly non-plussed by this latest addition to the Hix empire: an “American-managed hotel [that seems] a quite peculiar environment for the hip Mr Hix” and with all the “lack of style” of “a Hilton coffee shop in downtown Houston”. An “unusually long menu” results from mixing his “characteristic allegiance to small British producers” and more “off-piste” creations. They’re a mixed bag, with some misses (“lacked piquancy, vivacity”) but more hits (“a triumph”, “a perfectly good wheeze”) with steaks and desserts both highlights. The ending to her piece -- saying how much she’s looking forward to his next venture -- seems a little two-edged.
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