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Review of the Reviews - London

Dolada

Marina O'Loughlin, Metro (Rating: 3/5 stars)

The critic unwisely accepted a “friendly offer” of a glass of grappa at the end of her meal at this “discreet” but “super-posh” Mayfair Italian, thus adding an astonishing £30 to the bill. This single fact tells you almost everything you need know about the establishment – “[i]f a dewy-eyed Jilly Cooper heroine was being mashed by a swarthy no-good Lothario, this is just the sort of place he’d take her”.

Angelus

Fay Maschler, Evening Standard (Rating: 4/5 stars)

The arrival of a new (English) chef, Martin Nisbet, provides a platform for a non-opening review of Thierry Tomasin’s Bayswater pub-conversion. “Angelus has become a neighbourhood restaurant in a way that might not have happened with more obvious restaurant locations”, the doyenne of critics observes… and in a way she finds profoundly satisfactory.

Ibérica

Andrew Neather, Evening Standard (Rating: 4/5 stars)

Rather late in the day, the Standard – albeit not with one of the more regular food critics – gets around to reviewing this upmarket tapas bar, of which the only reviews we’ve so far seen have been in Time Out (very good) and Harden’s own (very unimpressed). Well, it’s now 2:1 to the supporters, as Mr Neather proclaims “tapas of an excellence to rival those at Fino, Dehesa or Brindisa”.

Comptoir Libanais

Guy Dimond, Time Out (Rating: 5/6 stars)

“This delightful shop and café chain looks set to do for Lebanese food what Carluccio’s Caffès did for Italian – give it ‘affordable chic’ cachet”, says TO’s head reviewer, visiting the new St Christopher’s Place branch of the mini-chain whose début operation was at Westfield. “With such an appealing look and dishes, this growing chain should do well in London’s affluent shopping districts, with Lebanese and others alike.”

Swan & Edgar

Guy Dimond, Time Out (Rating: 3/6 stars)

This new Marylebone gastropub is “a delightful place”, says Mr Dimond – it’s not so much the food, but more the overall charm of the establishment that seems to have seduced him.

Salisbury

Guy Dimond, Time Out (Rating: 4/6 stars)

The food at this larger new Fulham gastroboozer is “decent rather than great”, says the critic, “but the place works well as a spacious, sophisticated pub.”

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