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Restaurants du jour
The return of London star chef of the ’90s Bruno Loubet continues to inspire almost unanimously popular press reviews, making his bright corner brasserie at Clerkenwell’s Zetter hotel one of the hottest tickets in town. Indeed, with Easter injecting a bit of a pause in major openings, this is the only place that’s achieved any real mass of critical coverage over the past month.
Another début that ought to making huge waves is the long-awaited (re-)opening of Gordon Ramsay’s Petrus. The man himself couldn’t find time in his busy international schedule to turn up on opening week, though, making you wonder quite why anyone else should make the effort. Early critiques from the early-days reviewers (ourselves included) have tended to be some variation on: so what?
Also of note
The latest, clubby venture from the media-friendly Soho House remains the foodie/media world place of the moment.
The new Soho venture from media/art world darling Mark Hix (ex-Caprice group) similarly continuing to attract a lot of media attention.
Not far away from Hix, and run by another Caprice alumnus (Russell Norman), a cosy and useful Venice-meets-Greenwich Village outfit, which remains something of a ‘scene’.
Mega-popular Gallic bistro near Charing Cross. Since the receipt of a Michelin 'bib' (plus a very positive Times review), it can be quite difficult to book. An offshoot in the East is already planned.
Reviewed with approval by the Evening Standard, the Telegraph and Harden’s, an unremarkable-looking Fulham restaurant that’s being put firmly on the map thanks to the cooking of Ramsay protégée Gemma Tuley.