Babbo
Fay Maschler, Evening Standard (Rating: 2/5 stars)
The doyenne of critics is first with the news on this new Mayfair Italian, which is unrelated to the celebrated NYC joint of the same name. The food’s not bad, but the rapport prix/qualité constantly niggles. “A lunch where in no way had we pushed the boat out — no side dishes, no desserts and two set menus as part of the order — nevertheless came to over £170 for four. The wine list was no help as there was little or nothing of interest under £40 a bottle and the chosen Gavi Vigneto at £45 underwhelmed.”
Apsleys (Heinz Beck)
Marina O'Loughlin, Metro (Rating: 2/5 stars)
The “clenched luxury” of this “superluxe” Belgravia dining room, now under the auspices of Rome’s leading chef, does not impress the critic. On the upside, “breads and puddings are immensely tasty” and pasta is “a strength”, but otherwise the whole thing is “a bit bewildering”. The meal includes “one spectacular duffer”: “[s]omewhat slimy fish… on a bed of chickpea mousse that's like hot hummus, bizarrely adorned with what appear to be Rice Krispies… for the cost of £30”, and overall her lunch “is not an enjoyable experience”.
Princess of Shoreditch
Guy Dimond, Time Out (Rating: 5/5 stars)
The critic finds plenty of “finesse” on display in the “smart” dining room of this relaunched Shoreditch boozer. Everything is done consistently well, but it still isn’t absolutely clear – at least to us – why this is a five-star review overall.
Pizza East
Richard Vines, Bloomberg (Rating: 3/4 stars)
“Pizza East Is Cool, Too Bad About the Pizza”, says the headline, and that’s a pretty good summary of the critics’ views of this Soho House group Shoreditch newcomer. Given that the main menu dish was “disappointing”, though, the (rare) 3/4 rating does seem rather generous.
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