Viajante
Fay Maschler, Evening Standard (Rating: 3/5 stars)
This is a review of a “revolutionary” Bethnal Green newcomer that reads better than the rating would suggest. The approach of chef Nuno Mendes is “not that of molecular gastronomy but there is playfulness, ingenuity, empathy with vegetables, which are addressed almost more seriously than is protein, and a delight in surprise and shock in both texture and temperature”, says the critic.
Alongside “quite the best bread I have had in ages”, highlights included “delectable” skate with mustard gnocchi, and a sorbet of lemon and Thai basil that “exploded with flavour.” What’s never really explained, though, is why all this only merits three stars.
Koya
Marina O'Loughlin, Metro (Rating: 4/5 stars)
High praise for this “sensational” Soho Japanese, which specialises in the “thick, wriggly Sanuki noodles of south-west Japan.” Side dishes are “terrifically good”, staff are “endearing”, and the “heavenly” noodles themselves are “freshly made daily in the traditional way” with wheat imported from Japan: “their slurpy, lipstick-destroying, chewy suppleness is my new definition of addictive.”
Charmaine Mok, Time Out (Rating: 4/5 stars)
The critic is impressed by the “refreshing simplicity” of this Soho noodle bar, where the interior is “stark and stripped down, with utiliarian wooden benches and tables, and menus hung on the walls.” While she is unconvinced by the house special of udon with finely chopped pork, all other dishes are “a joy” (with “extraordinary” pork belly braised in cider a particular highlight).
Platform
Guy Dimond, Time Out (Rating: 2/5 stars)
“Platform is aptly named, as it has all the charm of a railway departure lounge.” The critic is mostly disappointed by his visit to this restaurant next to London Bridge station, where service is “muddled, rushed and pushy” and dishes such as Ruby Red pie are “no better than standard pub grub”.
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