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Quick Bites

6th May 2008

REVIEW OF THE REVIEWS - NATIONAL

Maze Grill

Jay Rayner, The Observer
“Maze Grill, in London's Grosvenor Square, is the most interesting opening from Ramsay’s outfit in a long while, piloted by one of his most interesting chefs”, says the critic. In a testosterone-charged review, he’s bowled over by the steaks, but “elsewhere… Maze falters”, and the style of the place seems a little “prim and proper”.


Apsleys

Zoe Williams, Daily Telegraph
Rating: 6.5/10
More highlights than lowlights illuminate the critic’s meal at the opulent Italian newcomer at the Lanesborough.

Terry Durack, Independent on Sunday
Rating: 13/20
Rather like the Telegraph’s lady, the Indie’s man has an experience with real ups, as well as downs, at an establishment which offers “perfectly acceptable Italian urban peasant food”, as well as “fish knives, formality and fuss”.


Byron

Giles Coren, The Times
Rating: 7.33/10
The critic finds something pretty close to “the platonic ideal of a hamburger” at this Kensington newcomer.


Arbutus

Jasper Gerard, Sunday Telegraph
A “striking absence of women” is noted at this much hailed ‘haute’ bistro, in Soho. He is impressed by the value on offer, though, and concludes that the place is just “too cheap”.


Panoramic, Liverpool

Matthew Norman, The Guardian
Rating: 5/10
The critic ventures to a new 34th floor restaurant, which does nothing to upset the city’s reputation as a “restaurant black hole zone”.


Coles, Marlborough

Rod Liddle, The Sunday Times
Rating: 2/5 stars
Mr Gill’s stand-in is most unimpressed by the smartest restaurant in Marborough. “Until you factor in the bill, Coles is by no means appalling; just nowhere near good enough for the idea it has of itself…”

Hardens London Restaurants 2008