North-Islington restaurant Morgan M N7 has – according to a recently arrived press release – undergone a “dramatic refurbishment to create richer surroundings better suited to chef patron Morgan Meunier’s decadent modern French cooking”.
Translation? He’s on the hunt for a Michelin star. And quite right too: in our most recent survey, Meunier’s cooking was eclipsed only by Gordon Ramsay’s and Bruce Poole’s (from Chez Bruce SW17) – holders of three and one star(s) respectively.
The current red guide describes Morgan M thus: “Simple restaurant in a converted pub. Smartly-laid tables complemented by formal service. Modern dishes based on classical French combinations”. How – from such a lame review – one can tell that this is one of London's top eateries not just any old gastropub is anyone's guess. Just how often do their inspectors visit places?
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