Regular readers will note that this used to be called the 'Midweek Press Review’. Here we cover the major London-media reviews of the past seven days (plus any particularly interesting blog commentary).

Sakenohana (First major reviews)

Fay Maschler, Evening Standard
Rating: 4/5 stars
Ms M brings to an expectant city – this place was first announced for almost a year ago – first news of Alan Yau’s swanky St James’s Japanese, and its “enchanted forest“ interior. She likes the food too, and finds the menu prices surprisingly reasonable. “No wine is offered”, though, and “it is the cocktails, Champagnes, whiskies, sake and shochu where the bill mounts up”.

Jan Moir, areyoureadytoorder.com
The Telegraph’s ex-critic is rather more circumspect than the divine Ms M about this “cathedral where the mute worship of sake is encouraged”. On a practical note, she observes that the tables for two are much inferior to the tatami tables. She finds food tastes “muted”, and portion sizes tending to “haphazard”. She is also rankled by the sommelier selling her a second flask of sake at four times the price of the first – you have been warned!

Guy Dimond, Time Out
[Time Out’s online/offline offer is getting very scrappy. The website already carries the review from next week’s magazine (12 December), but this week’s magazine’s reviews are not yet on the website! All very confusing.] Anyway, though there is no grading yet shown in the online review, TO’s head reviewer clearly took to the latest project of Alan Yau (“London’s most influential restaurateur”). He suspects, however, that it is is “one of those places you either love with a passion, or utterly fail to comprehend”.


Le Café Anglais

Jenni Muir, Time Out (not yet online)
Rating: 4/6 stars
With all the gush about for Rowley Leigh’s new Bayswater venture in the media, Ms Muir sagely notes that “it’s like 1990s Quaglino’s fever all over again, only less exciting”. She isn’t wowed by the place, but finds the food and service very satisfactory.



Terranostra

Fay Maschler, Evening Standard
Rating: 3/5 stars
As we noted on our own visit, the critic finds a disappointing lack of custom at this new City Sardinian. She doesn’t especially like the setting, but this is an establishment where “the heart and soul are located in the kitchen”.


Haozhan

Marina O'Loughlin, Metro
Rating: 2/5 stars
The critic is not impressed by this much-lauded oriental newcomer. At the end of her review, she rather grudgingly concludes that she “ would rather eat Haozhan's food than most of its neighbours”, but then “that's a bit like saying I'd rather have rickets than leprosy”. Chinatown, eat your heart out.


Cantina del Ponte

Marina O'Loughlin, Metro
Rating: 2/5 stars
A major revamp provides the reason for the critic to revisit this long-established D&D (fka Conran) riverside Italian. Redesigned by Conran & Partners, it now looks like “a cross between a Carluccio's and a branch of Ask”. “The menu promises great treats but fails to deliver on all counts”, she fumes: “If I want a chain, I'll stick to Strada”.


Prince Arthur

Jenni Muir, Time Out (not yet online)
Rating: 4/6 stars
As Ms Muir so rightly observes, “no one wants a small spotted dick”, but otherwise this new Gun-group Hackney gastropub satisfies the critic pretty much completely.


Duke of Wellington

Guy Dimond, Time Out (not yet online)
Rating: 4/6 stars
“If you’re looking for a proper contemporary gastropub, you’ll be delighted”, says the latest convert to the charms of this revamped Marylebone boozer.


Market

Guy Dimond, Time Out (not yet online)
Rating: 3/6 stars
A rather up-and-down review of a bare new British restaurant, in Camden Town.