Kitchen W8
John Walsh, The Independent (Rating: Food 4/5 stars, Ambience 3/5 stars, Service 5/5 stars)
The critic visits are “rather stark” but “indefinably cool” and “friendly” Kensington bistro, where the food – though it has its ups and downs – generally impresses. It’s “a little too pricey and plain to be a neighbourhood drop-in site. But the food and the welcome make it a must-consider for anyone in Kensington with something to celebrate”.
Pearl Liang
Toby Young, The Independent on Sunday (Rating: 14/20)
This Paddington Basement oriental is “the brainchild of Humphrey Lee, formerly the manager of Mandarin Kitchen in Queensway, a much-loved Cantonese that does a good line in seafood”, which he co-owns with Paul Ngo, the former head chef of Mandarin Kitchen, and now chef here. It turns out that the establishment “isn't faultless by any means”. At these prices, however, “you wouldn't expect it”, and – judging it on its dim sum alone – this is a place “capable of giving Royal China a run for its money”.
Dean Street Townhouse
The critic visits leads the latest outpost of the Richard Caring empire, in Soho, and finds it “as close to flawless as seems decent”.
Aqua Kyoto
Giles Coren, The Times (Rating: 7/10 (food))
Anyone involved in publishing or writing restaurant reviews will sympathise with the critic’s humorous (but fundamentally bang-on) summary of the perils of being asked for recommendations. Anyway, he ends up visiting a Japanese restaurant above Regent Street, which is touted as being “fun”. Sexually speaking, he finds an establishment “reminiscent of Harvey Nicks’ Fifth Floor in its heyday”. It can do “terrific” cocktails, and also some “first class” sushi.
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Nicholas Lander, Financial Times
An interesting business-background-heavy review of the latest venture from the man who brought us Livebait and the Real Greek. The place has its problems, but the critic finds that the backers are “totally committed to serving distinctive food”.
The Camellia, Horsham
Zoe Williams, The Telegraph (Rating: 7.5/10)
This is an “incredibly traditional” country house hotel dining room – “what the word ‘hush’ was invented for“, where the menu “looks as eternal as food itself”. The latter is pretty good, though, even if the prices “look eye-popping”.
Gilpin Lodge, Windermere
Jasper Gerard, The Telegraph (Rating: 8/10)
“[B]y far the nicest aspect of [this Lakes country house hotel], owned and run by the instantly likeable Cunliffe family, is its friendly informality”, says the critic. Some dishes by the new chef “are still evolving”, but the “crowds” of customers would appear already to have delivered a positive verdict on his régime.
Maison Bleue, Bury St. Edmunds
The critic visits a “rather lovely little business, serving smart but unshowy food with a minimum of fuss and bother to a clearly discerning crowd.” (Well, it must be: it’s very favourably reviewed in Harden’s!)
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