Marina O'Loughlin, Metro (Rating:3/5 stars)
“The Bill makes your heart race” at “dapper, non-dom billionaire mogul” Richard Caring's latest gaff, where “prices and shtick [are] designed to repel the great unwashed”. “Understatedly Art Deco” in style, it seeps a ripe miasma of money”, which leaves Marina struggling not to feel “like a chippy Bisto Kid with nose forever pressed against the window of outrageous privledge”. “Nominally a steak specialist” it “actually covers every base in a clever, comfort-and-luxury-food-laden menu. Everything she tries is “almost excellent”, but only “almost” and when it comes to the beef “give me Hawksmoor any day”.
Emma Sturgess, Metro (Rating:3/5 stars)
This “former Caffe Uno” has been given a coat of gold paint on bare brick, twinkly lights and decent upholstry”. The critic would have preferred her scoff “shredded and spoonable, rather than proud and on the bone”, and while they “know what they are doing” here “some of it is wasted energy”.
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