Mr Norman proclaims the the food at “this self-styled brasserie’ (“it’s no such thing”) as “very good indeed” (“which is no surprise given the involvement of Shaun Hill”). But a restaurant experience is not all about the food. Here, a “catastrophic” misuse of space, “sterile colour scheme” and “funereal” atmosphere” combine to counteract the “cracking” nosh, and he leaves with feeling of “relief”.
Matthew Norman (18th May 2009)
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